When U.S. friends complain that they don’t have the time or money to travel, Guatemala is the first place I point them to.
Guatemala is safe, beautiful, extremely budget-friendly, and much less touristy than many nearby international destinations.
To put it into perspective, in 2013 our flight was about $500 and we lived off of $30 a day while there. Though you will have to spring for travel insurance and some vaccinations, all in all, Guatemala is cost-effective and a breeze to get around.
I also couldn’t get over the variety of places and terrains you can explore in such a short period of time. From quaint Mayan villages to lakes, volcanoes, colonial cities, bustling markets & more, Guatemala has something for everyone.
It was also super interesting to explore the city during the Semana Santa (Holy Week), which Ivan and I did by total accident. If you’re able to book in late March, I highly recommend visiting then!
Our itinerary:
DAY ONE: PANAJACHEL
We flew into Guatemala City. While some travelers we met visited Guatemala City & said very positive things, it was still considered a bit dangerous in 2013, so we avoided it.
Instead, we arranged for a van to pick us up at the airport and moved on to Panajachel (just a 90 mile ride) alongside breathtaking Lake Atitlán
We arrived quite late the first night, so we wandered the brick streets of this quaint, friendly village and grubbed on street food before heading back to our low-budget hostel (Sotz Hostel). Pana is the jumping off point for the series of Islands surround Lake Atitlán.
DAY TWO: CHICHICASTENANGO
I am a HUGE sucker for markets and bazaars, but bias aside, Chichicastenango is MAGICAL. Chichi is just a short bus ride away from Panajachel and you need to visit it on either a Thursday or Sunday.
In Chichi Mayan crafts vendors pile in by the masses, creating a maze of color, carpets, BBQ, flowers, fabrics, fruits, farm animals, and incense.
Since we visited Guatemala just before Semana Santa, we were also able to catch a number of religious processions there. You can get lost in this place for hours before bussing back to Pana!
DAYS THREE - FOUR: SAN PEDRO LA LEGUNA
On day three we boated across beautiful Lake Atitlán – the deepest lake in Central America – to San Pedro La Leguna. Lake Atitlán is surrounded by three volcanoes in the Sierra Madre mountain range and is home to a small community of Mayan people. San Pedro is just one of several islands there.
Small boats run on a regular schedule for just a couple of Quetzals from Pana to San Pedro and the other islands surrounding this crystal blue lake.
Mayan culture is still very prevalent in San Pedro. Residents wear traditional Mayan dress and walk around with baskets on their heads. Kids play in the streets unsupervised on this tiny heaven of an island.
However, the area is known as a backpacker’s haven, so there’s a good mix of food and nightlife too.
While visiting San Pedro we stayed at the remarkably cheap Hostel Miguel for a few bucks a night and watched the sunset and sunrise from the adorable rooftop.
To enjoy San Pedro you really need to kick back, so we spent our days eating, drinking fresh fruit smoothies, people-watching and perusing the neighborhood.
The island is also home to some beautiful street art.
DAY FIVE: VOLCAN ATILAN
For a small free we hired a guide to take us up one of the most prominent nearby volcanoes. It was a steep, sweaty hike with rewarding views.
We lunched at the top and took in the highlands of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas range before heading back down to San Pedro.
DAYS SIX - EIGHT: ANTIGUA
Busses to Antigua (Guatemala’s colonel city) leave from Panajachel, so on day six we boated back across the lake and took a shuttle bus (est 3.5 hours) to Antigua.
Antigua is regarded as a colonial masterpiece – you can explore crumbling, colorful archways and stunning cathedrals while meandering down cracked brick streets there. Everywhere you look you are living history, and while there’s a ton to see, the pace is refreshingly slow.
Antigua can be easily explored alone. Must-see stops along the way include Casa Santo Domingo, Arco de Santa Catalina, La Merced, Church of San Francisco, Convento de las Capuchinas, Cathedral de Santiago, the Convento Santa Clara and more.
We also hiked up to the Cerro de la Cruz and caught some live music at this funky bar Café No Se.
DAY NINE: PACAYA VOLCANO
Pacaya is an active volcano with several lava rivers flowing down its side. We were able to hike to the top and roast marshmallows over lava like total tourists on day nine.
Afterward we headed back to Antigua to continue exploring as the Semana Santa processions revved up.
DAY TEN: HOLY WEEK PROCESSIONS
During the Holy Week processions hundreds of locals dawning biblical costumes carry heavy floats on their backs bearing religious images of the Passion of Christ. Bands play, incense burn, and Guatemalans make beautiful Aflombras (cereimonial carpets) from flowers and colored sawdust that get trampled when the processions pass by.
Semana Santa is definitely an event worth seeing – but be sure to plan your travel accordingly as the entire city shuts down.
Following Semana Santa, we headed back home – though if you can spare an extra week I urge you to fly to the Tikal Mayan ruins. We heard fantastic things about Semuc Champay, too!
