Before I traveled to Southeast Asia I knew embarrassingly little about the region apart from it being some epic, budget friendly destination everyone just has to visit one day. A sort-of right of passage place for travelers.
Going into the trip, I was hoping for something spiritual and dynamic. A big push out of my comfort zone. A little time to re-charge on the beach. Spicy food. Monks. Temples.
I got all that, and so much more!
This was a trip that changed me. My lifestyle and worldview are different now. It was also a month long celebration for my fiancée Ivan who will graduate from medical school next week.
Condensing my many thoughts and feelings on Southeast Asia into a single blog post is impossible. I could write a book. But having visited the region for 1MO, I know now that it can be incredibly tough to decide where to go and what to do in countries full of endless possibilities.
This blog post will serve as a cut and dry look at our 1MO itinerary and things we might have planned differently looking back. It is ideal for those traveling to North & Central Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand on a mid to high range budget. While Ivan and I typically travel on much less, we decided to go all out on this one - though there will certainly be recommendations for budget travelers in here!
It can also be used to inform 2.5 weeks in Vietnam and Cambodia or a couple of weeks in Thailand.
I hope that it will help you navigate the many perspectives on visiting this mesmerizing part of the world!
THE PLAN:
There are a million ways to “do” Southeast Asia, but the ideal is to backpack it for several months exploring every nook, cranny and noodle bowl by train, bus and motorbike. If I had it my way, I would’ve done Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Myanmar in one go. Maybe even tacked on Indonesia and the Philippines.
But Ivan and I had limited time and wanted to see a lot with the rare opportunity we had to fly to Asia before he begins his grueling intern year. So we had to maximize and plan the trip a bit more carefully.
We started our trip in Hanoi, Vietnam and finished it in Chiang Mai, Thailand. This, for us, ended up being the perfect itinerary.
Vietnam was the country that blew our mind (Hanoi in particular). Once we made our way through the bustle of Vietnam’s high-traffic cities, Cambodia was a perfect bridge to the more relaxed, spiritual part of our journey. Right when we were starting to get a bit tired, we hung low on the beach in Koh Samui and Ko Tao, Thailand. Then we picked it all up again in Chiang Mai to go out on a high note trekking, motorbiking, & more.
Due to time constraints, we were only able to do North & Central Vietnam. If you prefer to explore more slowly, my recommendation would be to do Vietnam & tack on a trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia.
However, I truly loved Thailand and couldn’t imagine the trip without it (though it is undoubtedly much more touristy).
Our Itinerary:
· Hanoi, Vietnam (4 nights + overnight stay in nearby Ha Long Bay)
· Hue, Vietnam (2 nights)
· Hoi An, Vietnam (4 nights)
· Siem Reap, Cambodia (3 nights)
· Bangkok, Thailand (3 nights)
· Koh Samui (6 nights)
· Chiang Mai (5 nights)
+ 2-3 days for travel.
While we did have some great experiences in Bangkok, my strong recommendation would be to skip Bangkok altogether and dedicate more days to Vietnam (perhaps the Sapa rice fields) and Ko Tao or Chiang Mai.
For budget, we aimed to spend $15-$25 per night on private rooms and $4-10/meal. We devoted much of our money to flights to optimize time, which cost about $1400 in total (including our flight from NYC). We also booked a couple of tours and guides, which truly enhanced the experience, but added significantly to the overall costs.
In the end, we spent about $3300 per person (or about $70 a day not including flight costs to Hanoi, Hue, Siem Reap, Bangkok, Koh Samui, Chiang Mai and Home). Easily, we could have brought this down to $2000 and $20-25 per day by not flying within Southeast Asia, more selectively picking guides and experiences, and eliminating some of the pricy, stupid stuff we did in Bangkok.
It is also important to note that we went during two of the hottest months of the year (April and May). While we had a great time, we would suggest planning around this as temps frequently hit 95-100 degrees. It can be brutal!
However -- if you do go in the summer months, you’ll still have the time of your life. You’ll just sweat a lot while doing it.
TRIP PREP - PACKING, MONEY & MORE:
We didn’t do much trip prep heading into Southeast Asia. Visas can be picked up upon arrival in Vietnam and Cambodia. Thailand doesn’t require a Visa for U.S. citizens.
Vaccinations are minimal (Hep A and Typhoid, which we already had). No need for Malaria – but don’t forget the sunscreen, Tums, and anti-diarrhea medications (though we never had to us the latter & ate tons of weird stuff).
Looking back on packing, I could have subsisted off of the following with my 65L backpack as laundry is cheap & available everywhere:
· One pair of comfortable walking sandals (that can be easily slipped on and off for temples)
· One pair of tennis shoes
· 2-3 pairs of socks
· Swimsuit
· Small towel
· 3 T-Shirts or cool blouses that cover the shoulders and parts of the arms (for Temples)
· 3 long pants or skirts (for Temples – easy & cheap to pick up there)
· 2 Tank Tops
· 2 Shorts (not too short/skimpy)
· 10 pairs of underwear
· 1-2 dresses for going out (ideally one that is below the knee and covering your shoulders, like a T-Shirt dress)
· Cell phone & charger
· 2 books & crossword puzzles for transit
· Journal & pen
· Sunscreen & cover-up
· Lonely Planet Southeast Asia guidebook (MUST have!)
· Camera (we use a Canon T6 with HD video, but didn’t bring the full kit)
What NOT to bring:
· Hair dryer – typically provided
· Flat Iron – no need in the heat
· Laptop
· Skimpy clothing (not culturally respectable and makes you look like a cheap Tourist)
· Anything that isn’t breathable and comfortable for HOT weather
· Toiletries (you can pick up deodorant, soap, shampoo and conditioner for cheap anywhere)
· Converter – we could plug directly in
Beforehand, I also highly recommend Googling or reading up on the following topics so you have context for the amazing things you’ll see on this journey:
· Buddism (specifically Theraveda & Mahayana)
· Hinduism
· French occupation of Vietnam
· The Vietnam War
· Animism & South East Asian Hilltribes
· Champa People
· Rice & silk production
· Confucius & Hoi Chi Minh
· Monks
· Massage (Aromatherapy, Cambodian, Thai)
· Tranquility Meditation
· Scuba Diving in Ko Tao (watch the Top 10 Things to see YouTube video!)
· Lanna People
· Khmer People
· Khmer Rouge & Cambodian genocide
· How to be respectful in Temples/what to wear
· Popular dishes in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand
I believe it is SO important to learn about the history and culture of where you’re traveling. It would have been great to have more working knowledge beforehand.
WHERE TO STAY:
For me, the ambiance of where we stayed mattered. This trip was somewhat of a “fake honeymoon” to spend time together before Ivan starts his grueling intern year at UCSF. On top of that, because we were cramming in so much, we really wanted nice places to go back to and relax at night.
So, with that in mind, the hostels below offered significant value – including free breakfasts, transport from the airport, pools, complimentary massages, laundry, reduced fee tours, pool tables, ping-pong tables, restaurants, balconies and private rooms with AC (all of which we took full advantage of) – in the ballpark of just $8 - $15 per person per night. Click on the title to access reviews or websites via link.
Hanoi Guest House (Hanoi) – right in the heart of the Old Quarter. Ask for a room with a balcony view facing the main drag & opt for the Vietnamese chicken noodle soup breakfasts. Take advantage of cheap airport transfer and laundry here. I’d give this one five stars for the value!
Charming Hostel (Hue) – book their reduced cost full day tour of Hue (do the small group!) and grub on free breakfast. Ask Charming to help you arrange transport from Hue to Hoi An. If it’s cooler, either drive a motorbike or ride on someone else’s stopping along the way in Danang. If it’s very warm, booking a private driver through Charming is nearly as affordable as the train, but allows you to stop at the beach. Note that this hostel is 10-12 minutes walking from the main backpacker drag, but the hospitality was fantastic! Four stars.
Nhi Trung Hostel (Hoi An) – ask for a room with a balcony. Delicious, filling breakfast included each day and Nhi Trung can arrange for a day trip to Mỹ Sơn (a large group tour sufficed here). I’d give Nhi Trung four stars, but if you prefer to go more upscale, Essence Hotel in Hoi An was amazing!
Golden Temple Villa (Siem Reap) – best of breed! The ambiance and hospitality here was through the roof. Our favorite stop of the trip. Ginger tea, complimentary massages, a Tuk-Tuk to and from the airport, parting gifts. Definitely don’t miss this one! Five stars.
Rikka Inn (Bangkok) – Rikka’s right on Ko Sahn road where all of the backpackers stay and has a mediocre rooftop pool that doesn’t look much like the picture. If you don’t skip Bangkok altogether, I wouldn’t have high expectations for Rikka – but a pool IS valuable here. Hunt around for a place that covers airport transport. Three stars.
Weekender Villa (Koh Samui, Lamai Beach, Thailand) – Weekender provided us with an adorable hut and Ocean views. There’s a pool, some lounge areas, ping-pong, a pool table and an affordable bar. The downside is that it’s a 20 minute walk from the main Lamai drag and a 15-20 minute cab from Chaweng. I’d still highly recommend Weekender because I loved the secluded ambiance for the price, but you might want to compare against housing closer to Chaweng or Lamai beach (see more on the differences below). That said, it might be nice to book here and then move somewhere else halfway through your beach trip to explore more of the Island. Four and a half stars.
Scent Hotel (Koh Samui) – cool, oriental luxury hotel near Bangrok Beach and Fisherman’s Village ($80/night). I really enjoyed our stay here. There’s an infinity pool, secluded beach access, kayaks, delicious (albeit overpriced food), a restaurant overlooking the beach, and more. But it was still a short cab from Fisherman’s Village, and you could probably find another luxury option in a more convenient location. In retrospect I might have checked out The Jungle Club. 3.5 stars given the steep price.
Awana House (Chiang Mai) – so much yes! Great location, adorable decorations, balconies, and a pool for a very affordable price. Book here! This is the hostel pictured above.
While everywhere we stayed (excluding Rikka) worked out perfectly and added significantly to the trip, don’t miss Hanoi Guest House, Golden Temple Villa, and Awana House – our personal favorites for the money spent.
WHAT TO DO: HANOI
Hanoi ties Chiang Mai for my favorite stop of the trip. Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and second largest city next to Hoi Chi Minh. It’s incredibly busy with scooters zipping by in every direction.There’s always so much going on, and you truly get a sense of daily life as everything happens in the streets.
Not to mention the amazing prices! You will get the most bang for your buck here.
Stay in the Old Quarter, but definitely venture out to take advantage of the food & other attractions this dynamic city offers.
Hanoi Street Food Tours – don’t miss this & ideally do it on your first night for an intro to the epic deliciousness that is Vietnamese food. If possible, ask for tour guide Mango. Highlight of our trip! Five hours of food, drinks, and more in a small group setting. FIVE STARS!
Vega Travel Cruise to Ha Long Bay – located just down the street from Hanoi Guest House. Convenient transport to an adorable cruise boat that you will share with 12 other guests. Comfortable rooms, good food, kayaking, caving, climbing, fishing and a chance to jump off the boat for a swim. Highly recommend – but opt for the single night & spend more time in the city proper! Also note that Ha Long Bay is foggy during several times of year and try to optimize your trip for clear visibility.
Ms Dzung’s Massage – massages were a key part of our trip & I am so glad we were introduced to them early on. Ms Dzung’s trains blind people to give massages. I tried the aromatherapy massage with Lavender – it was a religious experience. On the way here, take a little walk down Hoang Dieu (our favorite neighborhood street in Hanoi). Five stars.
Ethnology Museum – this museum is a short $7-8 cab ride from the Old Quarter. It will introduce you to the many hill tribes that live in Vietnam & elsewhere in Southeast Asia – including their clothing, homes, tools, and more. If you go to one museum in Hanoi, I highly recommend this one! Especially if you are an anthropology buff like me.
Hoa Loa Prison Museum – thought-provoking prison turned museum that will educate you on the French occupation of Vietnam pre-1950s and the American War. I recommend stopping here on day one to get a sense of this important history. Don't miss.
Bai Hoi Corner – people watch and enjoy a Saigon beer on Hanoi’s popular beer street.
Hanoi Night Market or Cho Dong Xuang Day Market – we didn’t get to go to either of these markets, but markets are always an eye-opening cultural experience, so I’d recommend trying.
Temple of Literature – have a nice stroll through this quiet park and temple that honors Confucius.
Ho Truc Bach Lake – great place to hang low at night and cool off – but skip the unimpressive nearby Island Temple.
Imperial Citadel & Hoi Chi Minh Mausoleum – pair these two together. Be sure to check the times for the Mausoleum, though, so you can see Hoi Chi Minh’s well-preserved body
WHERE TO EAT: HANOI
Food was a highlight in Hanoi. Spend as much time as possible eating everything. Beyond the Hanoi food tour, we also recommend:
New Day Café – delicious and conveniently located in the Old Quarter. Eat here twice & consider a cooking class!
Koto Café – great place to stop for coffee & dessert
Also note that Hanoi has fantastic nightlife, but due to the express nature of our trip we somewhat limited our wild nights out. They were definitely had – but being hungover on this trip in 90+ degree weather was not pleasant.
WHAT TO DO: HUE
Hue is a small city in central Vietnam that used to be the capital during the Nguyen dynasty. If you’re into culture & history, we recommend making a quick stop here and organizing a day tour to get the most out of the city. We learned a ton about the temples, tombs, pagodas, and Buddhist rituals that are so important in Vietnam.
We loved our small group tour and stopped at a village market; Ming Mah Tomb; the 12th King Tomb; the Imperial City and Forbidden Purple City; and the Heavenly Lady Pagoda.
At night, check out the wild DongBa market. You won’t find anything you want to buy here, but we found it quite interesting to peek into daily life in Hue.
In retrospect, I would have spent more time considering where to eat in Hue and especially focused on hunting down the best Bun Bo around (a popular Hue pork noodle dish). We enjoyed Quan Bun Bo and Nina’s Café – but spend more time with the Lonely Planet Guide and Trip Advisor to make food a more integral part of your Hue experience.
WHAT TO DO: HOI AN
Hoi An is a beautiful former port town with a well-preserved Ancient City cut by canals. For many we met, this was their favorite stop in Vietnam. I preferred the hustle & bustle of Hanoi myself, but Hoi An is not to be missed.
We kept things very low in Hoi An and spent most of our time eating and shopping, but really loved our day trip to Mỹ Sơn in particular.
My Son – book a day trip to see these abandoned and partially ruined Hindu temples in the Jungle just outside of Hoi An. Mỹ Sơn is dedicated to the God Shiva and was tragically bombed by the Americans during the war. Don’t miss this chance to learn more about the Champa people and Hinduism that influenced much of the Southeast Asian region.
Ancient Town - there’s just so much to see here. Explore the Japanese bridge, temples (Cam Pho and Quan Cong), Tan Ky House, Trahn Family House, shops, and markets during a do-it-yourself walking tour.
Kimmy Tailor – all throughout Southeast Asia you will be haggled to buy custom-made clothes and suits. Don’t buy. If you’re going to get any original clothing made (which I do recommend) do so at Kimmy. Go here on your first day in Hoi An as you will have to return for several fittings. Ivan got an amazing two piece suits for $140 here that is perfectly fitted. We will order again.
*Looking back, I would have definitely organized a cooking class via Chef Ms Vy in Hoi An (see link below!).
WHERE TO EAT: HOI AN
Food was a highlight in Hoi An. Hands down we ate our best meals in Hanoi, Hoi An, and Chiang Mai. Worship it!
Nu Eatery – five star affordable meal. Order the Sesame Chicken. Eat here twice.
Morning Glory Restaurant – my favorite thing about this place is that the Chef (Ms Vy) operates a number of different thematic restaurants around Hoi An. Read the menu and learn more about the history behind each dish she makes. I’d highly suggest hitting up every other one of her stops &/or taking a cooking class (see http://msvy-tastevietnam.com/)
In addition, I recommend hunting down the best Bahn Mi and Vietnamese coffee you can find leveraging Tripadvisor.
*Please note - some of the above pictures also cover Bangkok since I am recommending to skip.
If you do go, you can definitely find great things to do in Bangkok and other people likely feel otherwise. It just wasn't my cup of tea.
WHAT TO DO: SIEM REAP:
I can do Siem Reap and Angkor Wat no justice. These places are magical, but I highly recommend booking a guide who can take you around in a vehicle with AC and explain a bit of history about each place.
We had a great time with our guide Bun from Private Siem Reap Tours doing the two day tour where we stopped off at Angkor Wat for sunrise; Bayon; Ta Prom (Tomb Raider temple); Preah Kahn; Phonom Bakheng; and Banteay Srai (one of my personal favorites).
When you reach out to Private Siem Reap, do yourself a favor and request Bun! The quality of the guides will make or break your experience, and some of our best memories were with our favorite guides.
We were exhausted at night and didn’t put a lot of effort into finding the best eats, but I do recommend Khmer Kitchen Restaurant & a night out on Pub Street.
We’d also recommend Miss Wong’s or Laundry Bar for drinks.
WHAT TO DO: KOH SAMUI
There are so many ways to explore Thailand’s breath-taking beaches and deciding where to go was one of the more difficult decisions we made when planning the trip.
However, given that we are a couple looking for a somewhat private, chill getaway and not a raging party scene, we decided on Koh Samui and Ko Tao instead of Phuket, Phi Phi and some of Thailand’s other gorgeous beaches. We also really wanted to dive and snorkel.
While all of the islands are somewhat touristy today, we got everything we were looking for by making Koh Samui our home base. However, in retrospect I would have spent 1-2 nights on Ko Tao.
If diving is your thing, head straight to Kao Tao to earn your certification affordably. Even better if you can plan your trip around a Full Moon party, in which case book ahead and stay on Koh Phangan. Unfortunately we missed this! -- though we heard it’s double fun if you come for New Years eve!
Discovery Divers: If your base is Koh Samui, we highly recommend this dive & snorkel company. They ran pick-up and drop off from our villa for a day trip to Kao Tao and operate their own private boats. It was just us and about eight other people for the 1.5 hour ride to Kao Tao. In contrast, we heard other outfits crammed folks into busy boats full of seasick passengers. DO go for a company that will take you on a private boat, or start from Kao Tao. If you are new to diving, Ivan loved his Beginner Diving course learning how to Scuba. He was able to get straight into the ocean (rather than start in the pool) with a private instructive and could have continued for a full certification. I failed tragically at Scuba and had a near panic attack – but snorkeling was fantastic! Take some Dramamine!
Chaweng Beach – Chaweng offers the softest sand, bluest waters and best party scene on Koh Samui. In retrospect, I would have spent more time here. We posted up near Ark Bar and spent a day lounging around. Every night’s a party.
Lamai Beach – Lamai’s waters aren’t as blue, but they’re much deeper and better for swimming. Ivan loves to swim, so he preferred Lamai. We also HIGHLY recommend stopping at the Relaxation Place Massage for an affordable Thai Massage you will never, ever forget. We also had a fun night out in Lamai visiting some of the Beer Girl bars and partying with Lady Boys – but indulging in this type of experience is really a matter of personal discretion. For me & Ivan, it was an interesting night out.
Fisherman’s Village/Bophut Beach – Perfect place to spend a day eating or shopping during the weekend market. Great restaurants and felt like more of a “locals” spot. Family friendly and good stretch of beach for couples who don’t care to be deep in the beach party scene.
That said, looking back if we had stayed on Ko Tao I would have pre-booked a daytime trip via GTAdventures climbing, diving and snorkeling. I would have also added a nighttime UV snorkel, which looks amazing! GT is a highly rated and popular outfit. We heard great things, and checking out the sea life was such a dream.
In addition, I might have checked out The Jungle Club for a night or meal on Koh Samui. However, with limited time it was fun to spend a little time exploring various beaches & kicking back.
WHAT TO DO: CHIANG MAI & NORTHERN THAILAND:
I am SO happy that we ended our trip in Chiang Mai. I do Yoga a couple of times a week and have long been interested in massage, meditation and herbal medicines.
All of that paired together made Chiang Mai a wonderful stop for me. At this point I was pretty burned out on temples and tours, so I used Chiang Mai as a chance to roll up my sleeves and learn new things. It was fantastic!
Thai Massage Course @ Namo – We opted for the three hour course to learn legs, back, neck and shoulder. It was EPIC, and I can give the best massages now. If you have more time in Chiang Mai, I might recommend going for a full Thai Massage certification.
Monk Chat & Meditation @ Wat Chedi Luang - I am fascinated by monks and really enjoyed this intimate chance to learn more from them about their routines and beliefs. Afterward, we stayed for a 1.5 hour meditation lesson. I really enjoyed it and learned a lot. Ivan was dying. It was an amazing intro to tranquility meditation – but be warned! Meditation is not easy.
Pooh Eco Trekking - If you take ONE of my recommendations, let it be this one. Pooh was unforgettable. We did the one night trekk to a small village where we stayed with the Po Karen people in a hut. We cooked, swam, visited a bat cave, and so much more. Our guide taught us about medicinal plants, held a tarantula, cooked us crickets, and made us Bamboo cups for tea time. It was so refreshing to see how sustainably the Po Karen people live. They were sweet and inspired me to make some big changes in my own life.
Samoeng Motorbike Loop - we were lucky enough to have friends who rented motorbikes and had driven them around for 4MO, so we hopped on the back and went for a 3.5 hour ride through the mountains surrounding Chiang Mai. It was awesome! Motorbike rental is about 500 Baht per day or less in Chiang Mai.
Nightmarket - the night market was a little bit pricy and felt very Western to me, but I still had a blast. It was actually nice to eat delicious tacos and pizza at this point in the trip. Definitely check it out! & be sure to check out the Saturday and Sunday walking streets if you're able. We unfortunately missed these, but heard they're great.
Love 70s - If you like to craft, sew or decorate you can find fantastic fabric and 70s stuff here. For additional shopping recommendations, check out this site.
Spicy Night Club - bars close early in Chiang Mai. Like midnight early. If you're looking for a late night, head over to Spicy Club and the coffee shop next door. You will see lots of Europeans fist bumping alongside lady boys.
In addition to these recommendations, Thai Farm Cooking School is a highly rated cooking course that I’d recommend. We heard really great things.
There are also opportunities to bathe elephants and play with Tigers in Chiang Mai, but I personally wanted to avoid.
We did ride and play with elephants in Bangkok, as well as feed them Sugar Cane, but I found it to be a somewhat sad experience having gone to Africa and watched these beautiful beasts in the wild.
In addition -- if you are working off of a more limited budget, I found this 50 Free Things to do in Chiang Mai blog so helpful.
WATCH OUTS:
We felt completely safe at all times in all three countries. However, there are a few things to watch out for. Here are the big four:
When haggling, the seller will always offer a price that is nearly 2X the true value of the item. Don’t be afraid to go incredibly low with your initial offer! Nearly halve the price they gave.
Cabs should always work off of the meter. Don’t accept a ride for a fixed price unless it’s arranged via your hotel or hostel
Don’t trust any locals in Bangkok. Don’t go on any Tuk Tuk rides or listen to their advice about what to do in the city. They’re really just out to screw you over and trick you into going to suit or gem shops where they hope you’ll shop for crap goods. We didn’t come across this issue in the other cities, but be warned about Bangkok. It's all smoke and mirrors.
If you have the opportunity, carefully plan out which cities you will be visiting on weekdays and which on weekends. Chiang Mai, for instance, has amazing Saturday & Sunday walking streets that we missed. You don't have to plan every detail ahead, but what you can do will be influenced by days of the week, hours, and holidays
That being said, this was probably the easiest month of travel I’ve ever had. We saw ladies walking around with six month old babies strapped to their bellies doing the same trip we did.
You will undoubtedly have a blast and live a happy, relaxed life in Southeast Asia! Hope this guide helps you make the most out of your trip -- and again, there are so many ways to do this trip much more slowly and affordably.